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The Crazy Australian

How To Get Hooked On Surfing

August 16th, 2007 by hayesy

Living proof: Wilkin is a convert to surfingHave you ever wished you were a surfer? Ever heard yourself say “I can’t surf”? You were wrong, you can start now. Here are 6 steps to falling in love with the best sport in the world.

Imagine: You are resting on your board out the back, waiting for a wave with your mates and drinking in the most magic scenery on Earth. Even with the blood pumping and adrenalin flowing, you feel an almost-mystical peace with the world. Hakuna matata, time has stopped. The business of life slipped completely out of your mind the moment your board hit the water, and when you get out you will have no idea how long you were in.

Surfers are among the most laid-back people on the planet, and I’m not surprised. Connected to nature and having fun, getting exercise and meeting people, all in the most relaxed setting on Earth. And thats without even mentioning the cool-factor. Surfing is just one of those sports that almost everyone wishes they were part of.

But can you just ’start’ surfing, or do you have to grow up surfing?

Not every guy (and chick) shredding the surf this summer was born wearing a wetty and hanging ten before they could walk – it is possible to take up surfing later in life. I’m no pro (yet), but before last year I had never even picked up a surfboard, and now I love it.

So how do you get into surfing?The Endless Summer - the epitome of surfing movies

  1. Grab a mate - Find a mate who has a similar level of surfing experience as you, and decide to try it together. It’s almost always more fun to surf with friends and watching each other improve will be motivating. Even better: grab another mate who can and surf with them too.
  2. Grab a board – you don’t need to throw hundreds of dollars at surfing. Just about every surfer around has some old boards lying around from their grommet days. Borrow one from a mate or buy one second hand. It’s also possible to rent boards(check out local surf shops or surf schools) but I wouldn’t reccommend it – you want to be able to throw a board in the back of the car any old time, not be dependent on a shop being open. Lastly, all boards are not equal. While you can learn on anything, some will be harder, and therefore more frustrating, than others. (Some good guides are here and here)
  3. Just do it! A famous shoe company once said something like this, and they were right. Get in the water and try it. Expect to be hopeless but go with a sense of humour and have a laugh. It will be an interesting mix of fun and frustration (funstration?) but just get out there and have a go.
  4. Do it often. Try to go out at least once a week, but 3 times a week is even better. Don’t wait for the perfect waves (but don’t go out in dangerous conditions either), have a go even if it looks hopeless. I once was out on a shocking day – the waves were terrible, I was even worse, and I hadn’t caught a thing. An old bloke out the back summed it up: “At least you’re out here”. 
    Pick your mate up every Saturday morning for a surf. In Summer, you might even be hooked enough to keep your board in the car at all times, just in case you get a chance.
  5. Keep doing it! Stick with it. The only way to get better at surfing is to do it. And do it. And do it some more. Daydreaming, talking about it, watching other surfers, reading magazines, watching surfing movies (even ‘how to surf’ movies), and practicing on a mechanical bull will all be fun, and you might even pick up some tips, but they won’t make you a good surfer.
    Don’t expect to be ripping it up after a month, and don’t set goals either – just enjoy surfing the way you are surfing and progress will come.
  6. Get help – I put this last because it isn’t essential… but it helps! While some people might pick it up instinctively (snowboarders, skateboarders, or stampcollectors for example), there are some little tricks that make big differences. Getting help can be free, like asking for advice from a mate or watching other surfers in the water near you, or you can pay for a lesson. There are surf-schools all over the place and they aren’t too expensive. Just one lesson, especially when you are just starting to learn, can make a big difference. You can even find some great resources on the internet (like the videos at this site, for example)
  7. Optional: If you live in an area where the water is cold, buy a wetsuit. Cold water is no excuse!

Who knows, one day you might look this good.

 Getting into surfing isn’t hard. It’s so much fun that the biggest barrier to you being hooked is your reluctance to try it in the first place – so have a go! You won’t regret it!

I want to end by saying this: Surfing is almost spiritual – it’s a sweet way to feel free and at peace with the world, but the feeling is temporary. Lasting freedom and lasting peace, of which surfing is but a taste, is found only in Jesus. You don’t need a board, he doesn’t want your money, and you can’t earn him – he wants your heart. If you don’t know him, I encourage you to check out his claims (or contact me if you have questions). You don’t even have to choose between Jesus and Surfing.

Surf’s up! Do you have any tips? Lessons you have learned? Leave a comment.

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  2. Comments

  3. stronghold crusader

    Very nice :) btw very good tips i will use them. Some of them i did not knew.

  4. Bryan

    i second the crazy australian completely.

    just enjoy surfing the way you are surfing and progress will come

  5. power kites

    I am always searching online for articles that can help me. Thank you

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